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ARTICOLO

Eric Hertsens, Owner of EH kiteboarding Nino Rodriguez: shaper - builder
	All round board for wave and freestyle for a 70kg Advanced rider that already learned the kite loop. Conditions: North sea inland waters, current, short shop sometimes gusty wind I decide on a 125 x 35 cm, not to wide to cut trough the chop With a straighter outline that will help upwind performance, A little volume in the center, (16mm), for help with freestyle and unhooked stuff , (this allows for smaller kites), the volume allows you to recover when you miss a move. Thin tapered edges to carve hard in the waves, curved deck for strength and foot comfort. Fast planing rocker line, continuous for the smooth turning. Screwed on fin system, customer selects the fins for the different conditions.
Outline was imported from CAD to Adobe Illustrator These are the painting masks for the artwork. These will be cut on a vinyl cutter.
An XYZ table cuts out the outlines and the rocker control jig. Result: Routed outlines These are pre made rocker tables made out of carbon to prevent distortion, we have a vast selection to choose from. A curved deck is stronger and more comfortable for the feet, it also keeps the volume nicely in the center were it does not interfere with the bite of the board. Here Nino Rodrigues sands the board to perfection, any mark left will show trough the laminate, the better you do this step the easier the job to finish the board. Foot strap markings Route the foam so the inserts sit flush with the deck, fill them with plastic clay so no resin can get in. resin plugs for the fin screws to pas trough This is a fast setting Urethane resin, 2 minute pot life This resin sets in 2 minutes At 4 minutes you can still cut it, do not wait longer, you will need a grinder and will damage the foam Nice one, Nino!

	Here Nino uses a piza cutter to cut the S-20 9oz fiberglass This S20 fabric is a very dense tough weave that you can only use with a vacuum bag. It feels like cardboard We put the glass in the oven to make sure no humidety is left in it. Don't forget the mirror glaze step, the board will not come off... :(
Micro Balloons and epoxy mixed to the consistency of butter The white pigment gives us a perfect base later to paint on.
	With the Balloon mixture you seal the pores of the Corecell foam Remove all the excess
We use peel play to keep the laminate free from wax and to give us a perfect surface to apply the sealing coat after the laminate is cured
	Here Nino Rodrigues installs the 1 x 6oz Unidirectional and 2 x 9oz Biaxial S20 fiber layers
Layers 2 and 3
	saturated with resin, now Nino will use a ribbed roller to remove the air
Trim off the extra glass
	Positioning and aligning
Once again..remove the air..and voila!

	Foot area reinforcement
This is a Dacron fabric that lets the excess resin pas trough and this leaves a fine print when removed after cure to hold the sealing coat.
	Vacuum system with reserve tank, this system pulls 18HGA vacuun We use Polyethylene sleeves that are heat sealed both sides
	The vacuum already pushes the laminate in place, but you need to give it a hand to get it perfect Once you are satisfied the laminate is perfect, let the board cure completely. You can remove the pump one the laminate is cured. We use fast resin and let the board sit overnight
Carefully cut the excess off, be aware of the fiber dust, your lungs turn that in to cancer.... Masks, good ventilation and clean work ethic are essential.
	Peel ply removed, now ready for sealing. Leave a couple of mm on the edge, you will fill this corner with a resin balloon mixture. This makes for a strong edge
A resin balloon mixture is used to fill the weave of the peel ply. When this is cured we have a perfect sanding surface. You want to avoid sanding the fibers at all cost. When you sand the fibers you are taking strength out of the laminate.
Since we worked clean and meticulous trough out the whole process the sanding work is minimal, (30minutes),, Nino will start with a 100 grid paper and work his way to 220 grit. Be careful not to sand the glass and again, full protection for the dust. Primed amd ready for paint

Now all that's left to do, is the stickering and the painting. When the masks are removed and any glue trace removed the board gets sealed with a clear primer. After that it gets a Polyurethane Clear coat to give it the shine.
Finishing Touches... Putting on the pads
All finished! Ain't she a beauty?!
DISCLAIMER: This is not a How to article. Rather, it provides ideas to people that are interested in building their own kite-boards. I make no warranty as to the safety of any board made by following this method.